Sun 5 July |
Rathlin Island to Port Ellen, Islay |
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A brisk force 5-6 south easterly gave us a wonderful beam reach in virtually unbroken sunshine, once we had cleared Bull Point. We said farewell to Ireland, which we had thoroughly enjoyed and maintained a good 7+ knots on to Islay.
Our destination having great siginificance for Graham and David in particular who believe her to be the source of the world's very best single malt whiskies.
The entrance needs care as there are rocks to catch you out on either side; but we were soon berthed with help from the skipper of the schooner on our starboard side.
The beautiful afternoon encouraged us to erect the cockpit canopy and to eat our evening meal in its shade. David's assistance was offered; but not fully briefed. Just as Graham uttered, "Be careful, the bottom half of the frame can slip out of the top!" it did exactly that, plummeting to the depths of Port Ellen's marina.
Chapp took it quite well really, but being stainless steel, the pole could not be retrieved with our sea magnet. After some speculation on grappling, there was only one solution. Dave donned Chapps shorty wesuit and goggles and Verity, looking into the amazingly clear water, managed to see it lying on the bottom. The echo sounder helped us to calculate the depth as 11ft and David retrieved it first dive.
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After supper, Graham and Chapp joined the small congregation at St John's church on the waterfront for their evening service; very friendly people. The lady Reader knew West Mersea and had met the Company Shed's proprietor, Heather Haward, the previous summer while Heather was on holiday in Scotland.
The Ardview Inn was our agreed meeting point after the service. David and Graham could not understand how Jim McNaughton could ever have left after we had sampled just a couple of its amazing stock of the Island's rich heritage. An incredible selection, including many very rare offerings.
Our day's run took us over the thousand mile run for the cruise so far. This means we are over halfway and arguably now on our way home.
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Day Run 25nm
Total 1024nm |
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| Mon 6 Jul |
The Ardbeg Distillery Tour |
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After Sunday evening worshipping the Lord, we spent monday morning at Ardbeg, one of the temples of whiskey.
Our priestess, a delightful young girl called Briony, explained the mystic significance of malt, grist, wort, feints and similar sacred objects, after which we were allowed to take communion with some beautiful 10 year old malts.
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This was followed by a slap-up lunch at the distillery and an afternoon sleeping it all off on the boat - a truly spiritual experience! |
Day Run 0nm
Total 1024nm |
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| Tues 7 July |
Port Ellen, Islay to Crinan Loch |
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Sadly, we had to leave the Mecca for malt whisky lovers and continue our voyage north. Our next planned stop being Loch Crinan which is also the northern end of the Crinan canal; a short cut route that allows boats to pass from the Clyde via Ardrishaig sea lock to the Hebridean Islands.
Our chosen route is up the Sound of Jura; the Sound of Islay with a NW to N wind forecast and the notorious Gulf of Corryvreckan at north eastern end was not a consideration.
The forecast was NW to N 4-5 occasionaly 6. With the route up the sound being NNE we were anticipating a possible beat. The weather provided bright sunshine for most of the time; but the wind frequently blew 6 and sometimes reaching 28 knots true. The direction was fortunately kind enough, so that by taking the lifts we could complete our passage on port tack. The wind eased away for the last 40 minutes allowing us to shake out the reefs and sail in to the beautiful Crinan Loch.
A trip ashore let us view the pretty basin with some classic yachts remaining from last week's event; and the Victorian Locks for access to the canal. We enjoyed a pint in the hotel's bar before rowing back to witness a beautiful sunset atop the distant peaks of Mull and other islands before our steak and kidney pie supper.
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Day Run 44nm
Total 1068nm |
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| Wed 8 Jul |
Crinan to Oban |
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A relatively short trip today lay ahead of us and leaving at 1045 gave us good tidal streams. While some sections provided very little current, others produce white foaming areas to be avoided as the water rushes by narrowing rocky islands and over submerged rocks and shallows. One yacht had foundered and could be seen dried out high on the rocks.
Reeds suggests completely avoiding Corryvreckan, which has turbulent current and whirlpools if you get your timing wrong; but we didn't need to consider this passage as we were sailing to the north east.
The scenery is just beautiful. Photos and descriptions cannot do justice to the multitude of rocky islands; towering mountains; shades of verdant land contrasting exposed craggy cliffs with fissures, scree and rock outcrops; all of this being surrounded by beautiful clear water and challenging but rewarding sailing.
Despite a quiet start, the wind filled in force 5 to 6 and we had some fast sailing; albeit to windward. We sailed most of the way through the Keerrera Sound before motoring into the Oban Yacht Marina, which is actually on Keerrera. A free ferry runs through to midnight and takes you across to Oban in less than 10 minutes.
We had an hour in the fine seaside town before taking the ferry back to prepare supper. There will be time tomorrow to further explore Oban before we move on during Thursday afternoon.
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Day Run 23nm
Total 1091nm |
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| Thu 9 Jul |
Oban to Loch Linnhe |
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Before sailing we decided to take a couple of hours in Oban. Graham and Chapp had a brief look at the Oban Distillery, there was no time for a tour but it was interesting, though Ardbeg was a hard act to follow.
We continued our theme of visiting local museums and we were delighted with the Oban Museum of War and Peace. Danny MacDougall, RN and Bert MacBrayne, Royal Signals, proud members of the Royal British Legion and part time curators of the museum gave us a most interesting visit as they enthusiastically showed us the items on display.
Meanwhile David & Verity learnt about the history of Oban in a most informative visitors centre followed by a wander around the shops and a coffee and a danish. |
We then enjoyed the short sail up the most picturesque Lynn of Lorn leading into Loch Linnhe. With high peaks on either side it made for shifting, gusty winds ranging from 9-28 knots at times. We finally settled on a swinging mooring in Loch Linnhe. Ben Nevis will dominate our backdrop tomorrow.
We took the water taxi ashore and walked back to see Castle Stalker on its rocky outcrop silhouetted against the dipping sun. |
Day Run 12nm
Total 1103nm |
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| Fri 10th July |
Loch Linnhe to Corpach Sea Lock to the Caledonian Canal |
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We awoke this morning to an unbroken blue sky and still seas. With little or no wind forecast today we took a lazy breakfast and broke open the fishing tackle in hope of catching lunch on the motor up to Fort William. Again the views were stunning to both sides with Ben Nevis looming large on the horizon. We were lucky enough to see five Porpoises on our way but unlucky on the fishing front. Do not worry though we ate the left overs from last nights roast lamb for lunch!
As we approached Fort William a gentle breeze filled in and we enjoyed a sail for the last half hour up to the Corpach Lock. Once through the Lock we took a short walk into the village to find the local store and for David & Verity to check bus times for their homeward bound journey via Fort Willliam. Colette's permanent crew of Graham and Chappie will be sorry to see them leave but know they have had a week of super sailing in a beautiful part of Britain.
We ate an exceptionally fitting supper of Haggis, Neeps and Tatties and as we write this we are sat in an idyllic basin with superb views of the setting sun against Ben Nevis now contemplating tackling "Nessie" before the journey home.
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Day Run 19nm
Total 1122nm |
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